A Weekend In Buffalo: A Jewel Of A City With A Music Scene All Its Own
There’s unlimited music, entertainment, food and architectural sites to enjoy in “the city of good neighbors.”
By Scott Bernstein Aug 2, 2023 • 6:21 am PDT
Photo by Randy Duchaine
“Don’t blow up our spot,” is a phrase or variation of a phrase I heard often while spending the weekend in Buffalo checking out the scene a few weeks back. I understand why after enjoying a trip to a city with a multitude of entertainment options that unbelievably rivals my home city of New York in scope and diversity in hosting thousands of events each year. Now, while most who told me to keep the “City of Good Neighbors” a secret were joking, nearly everyone I met was keen on showing me their Buffalo as locals seem to each have their favorite spots for wings, music, entertainment, pizza, beer, fine foods, etc.
My weekend in Buffalo started with a driving tour of the city and surrounding areas. I was blown away by the rich architecture, beautiful environs and dozens of neighborhoods with a charm all their own. Buffalo is a city that knows how to preserve its gems. An example is the Guaranty Building, one of America’s first “skyscrapers.” Beautifully designed elements are everywhere on the structure opened in 1896 including gorgeous terracotta tiles. Another is the Buffalo Savings Bank, a neoclassical, Beaux-Arts style bank branch building located downtown sporting a gold-leafed dome. “The Goldome Bank” is now a branch of M&T Bank that has been preserved to look as stunning as it did when opened in 1901.
Of course no trip to Buffalo is complete without Buffalo wings. While I wish I would’ve had time – and the stomach – to traverse the full Buffalo Wing Trail, I had my first meal of the adventure at Gabriel’s Gate. Located in the incredibly cool Allentown district, Gabriel’s Gate has been serving up perfectly-prepared Buffalo wings for well over 50 years. The wings were delicious all eaten in a building situated in one of the original Tift Row Homes constructed in 1864.
Music was a major reason for my journey. Up first was the initial show of the season for the Central Terminal Summer Concert Series. Central Terminal is yet another stunning building in Buffalo that was an active railroad station from 1929 to 1979. The 17-story Art Deco style station is gorgeous despite falling out of use. I’m excited to see how the Buffalo Central Terminal renovation plan will bring the building into the future.
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Buffalo has an incredible music scene filled with talented players from an array of genres. At Central Terminal I had the honor of witnessing two fine acts from the city, Farrow and Rod Bonner. Farrow featured frontman Michael Farrow singing with heart, soul, authority and honesty about issues of concern to those in Buffalo and all humans. Then, Bonner wowed in playing a keytar like it was an electric guitar as he guided his talented ensemble through choice cuts by the likes of Blackstreet, Prince and Zap & Roger. Buffalo residents came out in force to line the massive lawn in front of Central Terminal with blankets and chairs to watch the free concert.
I also had the pleasure of meeting with Jennifer Brazill, founder of the Borderland Music + Arts Festival. Held an easy half-hour drive from Buffalo, the three-day event takes place on the grounds of Knox Farm State Park in East Aurora each fall. Brazill was so convincing of what makes Borderland such a special event that I literally booked a plane ticket back to Buffalo for the festival before I left. With Goose, Trey Anastasio with Classic TAB and moe. headlining an otherworldly lineup, I can’t wait to get back.
On Friday I toured Sportsmens Tavern, a family-owned and operated music club in the historic Black Rock section that puts on nearly a thousand concerts each year. Co-owner Jason Hall, another Buffalo music evangelist, told me the story of how his family opened the space. They’ve since expanded its footprint to include three venues, a music studio and non-profits. Musicians who come through town are in good hands with the Hall family, who know how to do it right and for the right reasons.
It was then back downtown for the first day of the Cobblestone Live festival. Andy Frasco & The U.N. provided a party for attendees. Frasco welcomed a bevy of guests to join in the fun and then took the time to greet festivalgoers after his set. From there I headed to Cobblestone’s main stage for Twiddle. I’m really glad I had a chance to catch the Vermont-based quartet before they begin an indefinite hiatus at the end of 2023. Though the originals were well-played, my highlight was Twiddle’s choice cover of Talking Heads’ “Girlfriend Is Better.” Keyboardist Scott Hannay, subbing for Ryan Dempsey who had travel issues, slayed in interpreting the parts created by the late Bernie Worrell.
On Saturday it was off to Artpark in Lewiston, a unique space housing multiple venues within an 108-acre state park. Artpark is incredibly special, run by a non-profit organization whose mission is to produce and present excellence in the performing and visual arts. I was taken by the gorgeous views atop the Niagara River and the care that goes into each event was evident from the moment I left the car. How lucky those in the area are to have venues such as Artpark.
It was back to Cobblestone next for the second and final day of this year’s festival. Buffalo Iron Works, one of organizers of the event, hosted Little Stranger. The dynamic duo of Kevin Shields and John Shields (no relation) kept my jaw agape at their signature sound mixing the best of Soul Coughing, Odelay era Beck and the Beastie Boys. The pair held the crowd in the palms of their hands and I stayed through the final note.
Finally, I took a quick stroll to the main stage for Doom Flamingo, who like Little Stranger are from Charleston, South Carolina. The six-piece synthwave act impressed and had attendees dancing with delight throughout their hour-long set. Buffalo’s own Mike Gantzer, guitarist and co-founder of Aqueous, came out for a wild guest spot just before Doom Flamingo’s set drew to a close.
My plan was to enjoy a jazz brunch on Sunday before heading home but unfortunately, the weather had other ideas and I left early on a comfortable and not-too-long Amtrak back to New York City. I was sad to leave Buffalo early but it won’t be long until I’ll be back. There was so much left to see from the Olmsted Park System to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House to concerts at Town Ballroom and many restaurants and breweries that look incredible. Sorry Buffalo, the secret’s out – your city is amazing.
[Sponsored content: Visit Buffalo Niagara is a JamBase partner.]
